Gliders > Slope Soaring
I'm drowning, in bits of an Mu28
Fred:
Hello from>>> Work! Yeah, still at it! :!:
Very nice Keith! :clap:
When people think about aerobatic gliders, they all think Fox and Swift first! But the Mu28 have everything we want in models, all the proportions are perfect for our sport! :D And I'm sure you will be the only one at the slope with this type of glider! :D
So, very quick reply anyway, for the wings, you don't have 300 solutions!
Vertical spar, I would add Carbone top and bottom for a I spar, and that will be more than enough like that!
Simple, quick and easy!
You can alsway add fibreglass layers (one full wing, one from root to ailerons, one root to airbrakes, and finally, one root to wing joiner box), but that might be overkill as with a good vertical spar, it's plenty on its own.
By the way, for the other that might be interrested, I did a how to a while ago. This is what I do, but you have hundreds of other ways, but these ones are simple and really easy to put in place.
http://www.gliderireland.net/index.php/techniques/vertical-wing-spars
http://www.gliderireland.net/index.php/techniques/composite-spars
For the airbrakes Vs Crow, I will always chose airbrakes at the slope. Maybe a question od taste, but Airbrakes generate way less induced effect that crows, and when you are close to the ground, in turbulences, having full controls, especially at the ailerons, it's appreciated! :D
Airbrakes, they are your throttle, it's a proportionnal channel!
Anyway, that's it for me for now, time to go back home, 3 hours sleep, and off to work again! 8-[
Happy Days:
Still working at half past midnight? :shock: You must be earning a fortune!! 8) (No wonder you’ve got so many models!!)Thanks for your input on that matter Fred.
In your link to those drawing in the previous post it shows the spars being fitted and then the final sheeting being fitted to cover the wing……I’m wondering if the wing joiner box should not be fitted first into each wing half before the final sheeting is put in place. Otherwise how could I fit the joiner box into the wing half?
Thinking on……. Before I can fit any spars whether they be carbon, spruce , or any other type I first have to create a single wing half from the three wing core sections that I’ve been supplied with (3 part cores for each wing half).
Has anyone got any suggestions as to what I could reasonably get my hands on that would be at least 2meters long and flat enough to lay the three sections on while I stick them together to make one straight wing half?
Would laying them out on a wooden floor be okay do you think? (The floor looks pretty flat to me)
K.
Fred:
Hey Keith (yes, from work... Again! :!: )
Don't use the floor!
To glue the sections between them, use white glue, as simple as that.
You can use epoxy, but you might see where the sections are joined together after sheeting, as epoxy will create a hard spot. Doesn't matter much anyway, just a question of look really :wink:
To keep them straight, glue the section in the foam they came from.
On the sections, where they join, I usually put a strip of Brown tape to avoid excess glue to glue the wing to the foam base!
Cling film is also what I use when sheeting etc.
For the wing, the process is very simple.
Sheet the top of the wing first (after having added a strip of UD carbone, peel ply for you ailerons if you want to use that (recommended to have a smooth aileron's flow))!
Tip the wing upside down, cut all your grooves for servos, spar, wing joiner box. Glue all that.
And sheet the bottom of the wing.
For the wing joiner, it depends of the type of spar you want to do at the end. With a vertical wing joiner, it is very easy to glue the wing joiner box to it.
Hop, back to work!
Happy Days:
Thanks for your comments chris,
I have to admit my mind keeps drifting back to this matter of which way is best to reduce airspeed for landing.
The benefits of flaps/ailerons verses airbrakes?
Of course I could fit all three controls into the wings and gain all the benefits except, that as Brian says, it would complicate the build and add weight. As I’ll mostly be launching this bird while on my own, weight is a matter of concern. If it’s too heavy it’ll need high winds to ‘perform best’ but I don’t fancy trying to launch a 4mtr model, by myself, in high winds. So I want to keep the wing loading as light as possible. For this same reason I probably wont be glassing the wings either.
One good thing about this build, it’s got my old ‘Grey Matter’ working overtime. (Just hope I make the right choices!)
Keith
I used to be indecisive, but now I’m not so sure!
gerryb:
hi keith,
re building board... in case you missed it, DON'T USE THE FLOOR!!!
ok, no more shouting. i have often used old style plain flush doors ( nothing to do with toilets, unless you're behind one, the door i mean, oh forget it). these are usually quite cheap and come in a variety of sizes. something about 6'8" x 2'8" would be a good idea. 2'8" would mean you could have both wings on the board at the same time. a little ingenuity and you could have the legs on castor wheels for easy manoeuvreing.
in one of the photos i saw a roll of veneer, obechi i think. is that your wing sheeting? wether it's obechi or balsa you use, copydex is a good adhesive for the sheeting. it is a water based latex glue and will not dissolve the foam.
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