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Airco DH2

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johnfireball:
Hi all,
      I have began my next project, it's a first world war DH2 of the type my grandfather flew, bought in kit form (aerographics), 28" span and my plan is to convert it to 3 channel rc with electric power.
Some work done on dummy engine
 
And the lewis gun,  wicker seat and inst panel


More to follow,
John.

Happy Days:
Hey John,
That’s a very intricate looking little model. Keep up the good work.

It might be that you already know the following, in which case ignore it, but just incase you don't :wink: ...............

Regarding powering the model………There are probably many web sites that’ll tell you how to work out the right type of motor, esc, prop & battery but for your info this is the one I use http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?page=1
Personally I’ve found AXI motors to be one of the best  motor manufacturers, but that’s only my opinion.

If you look at the right hand side of this page you’ll see the heading  “Fast Axi Set Up”
Use the drop bars to tell AXI what style of model you’re building and it’s weight and it’ll give you some suggestions of appropriate motors from it’s range.

If you then click on any of the motors that the selection has offered you, and scroll through their details, you’ll see what type of esc , battery & prop is recommended for that motor depending on what style of flying you intend to do.

Just going on from there; If you don’t want to buy an AXI motor (incidentally, most of the big European retailers sell them) then make a note of the recommended motors’ RPM/v
This is the  number of rpm the motor produces per volt applied to it.
If you then want to check for a similar motor from another manufacturer then use that RPM/v figure to see what a comparable motor from, say,…Hacker, or E-flight or any other manufacturer would be. (The number of rpm per volt is a good indication of the power of the motor.)

Just before to whiz off the the AXI site,………..little more info for you. Some brushless motor manufacturers show the spec of their motors’ rpm/v as “ Kv “ (1000rpm per volt)

Good Luck

Keith

johnfireball:
Hi Keith,
          Thanks for help. Here's the setup I ordered, hopefully it'll work out. What do you think? It will be my first foray into electric. My guess is that the final weight of the model with gear will be around 150grms  I would like the model to fly quite slowly to look more scale.I have also ordered a voltage regulator to power reciever and servos from one lipo.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9386

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6455

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9028

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9670

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8044
This kit is actually quite simple but I seem to always have to complicate things. I think I'll get to fly my quark this weekend.
John.

Happy Days:
From what I can see you’ve ordered an in-runner motor with a reduction gear. In-runner motors tend to have high rpm and low torque.
(Personally I’ve always preferred out runner motors which have more torque and lower rpm,…..It saves the weight of the reduction gears.)

I have no experience of using in-runners and from what I read on the website there is little detailed info about the motor/reduction gear.

The esc you’ve ordered should be okay, and I notice that it has a Battery Elimination Circuit (B.E.C.) which means that the esc will power your rx and servos from the Li-Po battery.

I don’t know which of the two props you intend to use. Although three /four bladed props look good on scale models when the model is static, I understand the don’t work very well in actual flight. Two bladed props work better, aerodynamically speaking. I know some scale flyers use two bladed props when flying and then change the prop for multi bladed ones to show the model when stationary, for a better scale appearance.

Because of the lack of detailed info on the motor/reduction gear I have no idea if you have a the right size prop or not. The esc and motor are matched, and the battery is probably an okay size as well. I have no idea how long a flight time the battery will give you because I can’t equate how much current that prop will draw through the motor. (Due to lack of details about the motor)
Certainly you should get  a few minutes of flight at least.
Best thing is to try the set up you’ve got and if the flight time is too short, try a bigger battery.
Keep an eye on the temperature of the motor and esc. If the prop is too big for the motor it will start getting hot. (The motor that is, not the prop! :lol: )
If the motor or the esc gets hot to the touch I’d get a reduced pitch or dia. prop. (If I were you I’d run a timed static test first before trying to actually fly it.)

If you’ve already ordered these parts then really it’s a suck-it-and-see situation. It’s all part of a learning curve John.
Good, ain’t it!

K.

johnfireball:
Hi Keith,
          Thanks for assistance, as you say I'll have to suck and see. So I don'tneed a voltage regulator as the esc does the job (more weight saved). The gearing on the motor is 7:1 and the long output shaft appealed as it has to go through the dummy engine. I just hope it has enough oomph to drag this fully rigged biplane through the air.
        Some more done on the cockpit

Inner side panels added ( showing rigging wires) cockpit surround added. I'm very attatched to my home built wicker seat just need to add seatbelts and a pilot.

       

These are the outer side panels originally fabric stitched around the airframe. I have used brown leatherlook embossed paper used for fancy box manufacture, will add stitching and attatch after painting.



John.

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