Gliders > Slope Soaring

Ninja

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Happy Days:
Yes Antonio, it is the Riser I’m building. :)

 I found that the formers were slightly wider than the width of the top and bottom ply fuse sections. So to ensure a good fit I had to sand the sides of the formers down by about 1 - 1.5mm.

The construction of your Ninja looks just the same as my Riser except  I had to shape the nose block myself. Grrrrr. :evil:
 I think your Ninja has foam core wings, doesn’t it? My Riser has built up (Ribs and Spar) wings.

By the way, you asked about the differences between thick and thin CA glue. To my knowledge both types have the same ‘bonding’ (sticking)  ability. The difference is that thick CA will fill any gaps there may be between the surfaces you’re joining. That’s the benefit of thick CA. The downside is that thick CA wont penetrate, (seep into) the wood.
On the other hand Thin CA will penetrate (Permeate is the posh word for it :roll: ) into the two pieces that are being joined together. This means the glue gets a better ‘grip’ or ’hold’ on each piece. (Whereas thick CA tends to just ‘lay’ on the surface of the pieces being joined.)

I hope you can understand this gibberish Antonio! :oops:

Keith

selleri:

--- Quote from: "billscottni" ---You did lightly sand the ply parts before gluing to remove any release wax? :?:  :?:
--- End quote ---

Would you believe they don't use release wax when making plywood!

billscottni:
That blows that old wives tale out of the water then!

Every kit review I remember reading (when kits were actually built!), said lightly sand to remove any release agent!

You live & learn :?

antonio:

--- Quote from: "selleri" ---
--- Quote from: "billscottni" ---You did lightly sand the ply parts before gluing to remove any release wax? :?:  :?:
--- End quote ---

Would you believe they don't use release wax when making plywood!
--- End quote ---


You scared me there for a second, Bill. I did sand the edges of all die cut parts, because they were not straight, but I left the laser cut ones alone. I assume a light sanding of all surfaces may be a good thing to do before covering (which I've never done before) but I am far from that right now.

Speaking of sanding, the fuse taking shape. The nose block came a tiny bit short, maybe half a mm, so I glued it flush on the left, then glued a small balsa bit on the right and sanded over to shape. Perhaps a consequence of what you said earlier Keith about the formers coming a bit overgrown!



I have seen pictures of Ninjas where the nose was sanded down to an almost round shape, very pointy. I am thinking I should leave this one more square-looking, in line with the fuse. Any pros or cons about either approach?

billscottni:
If you look at most models the nose is rounded. I would go that route.

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