Gliders > Slope Soaring

Ninja

<< < (2/11) > >>

Happy Days:
Yea, die cut part can be a problem. :!:  I’m just finishing a SIG model myself Antonio, and I had exactly the same problems as you.

I used a model knife to cut through from both sides any of the parts that would not press out.
I also came across many parts that did not have their part number printed on them. Some of the wing ribs looked exactly the same as each other, :?  until I looked very closely, then I was able to see a difference between them and match them to their position on the plan.

I found it best to loosely assemble the parts, then check, and then double check before I glued anything together
The instructions made it sound very easy to construct, as if one could build the model in an afternoon! :roll:

Keith

billscottni:
Very sharp blade and gradual scoring of the parts will see you through. As soon as you can see where the cut is, do it from the other side. Main point is to keep the blade sharp and go gently

antonio:
Started with the fuse. The laser cut parts with their nice straight edges made alignment quite easy. Everything held with rubber bands until perfectly (ha!  :o ) straight, then glued. Dilemma: thin or thick CA? I ended up using both in a bit of a random way. Any difference in strength?

F3 is the star of the pic and also of many Ninja comments out there: apparently the fuse's weak point is around F3. I'll reinforce later.

antonio:
That would be the Riser, Keith? Yep, SIG don't like printing part numbers. With the Ninja, only the laser cut pieces (outer fuse pieces) were printed. Rest is guesswork.

OK, so I see there is no magic trick to handling partially cut ply. Straight lines were OK, but the blade doesn't like curves!

Here's the fuse with nose block and canopy guides glued.

billscottni:
You did lightly sand the ply parts before gluing to remove any release wax? :?:  :?:

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page