Gliders > Slope Soaring

Mini Quark build

(1/6) > >>

johnfireball:
Hi all,
       I received my quark mini kit last Friday, many thanks Fred, and as usual got stuck in straight away. The kit contains a detailed plan and all the wood needed for completion, beautifully cut and of good quality. The carbon spars, leading edges, wing joiners and control fittings must be purchased elsewhere.
   

I have decided to try an electric conversion using a Turnigy Park 450 1050kv motor with a 25 amp speed controller a 1200ma 3s zippy lipo and a 9xsomething folding prop. Servos are hobbyking 939 metal gear(never had one fail crashed and all) I have used this setup before on a glider with good results. The problem is fitting it all into this narrow fuse. I am using the layout as shown in the pic above doing away with the servo trays as supplied and gluing the servos to the fuse side. I will make a door on the underside for battery removal. I think with the layout as above the C/G will work out (time will tell).
So the build is started. I noticed the fuse slot for former C4 was not cut so I measured it up and cut it by hand on both sides. Servo mount ST1 needed corners filed to fit in formers C3 & C2 (I decided not to use it as gear wont fit), servo holes must be filed to suit servos used.  Next the small bellcrank bushes are glued, one to each fuse side inners and aligned by putting fuse sides back to back and inserting a 3mm rod through the holes. The stripwood supplied can then be glued to the fuse edges (pins and a few cuts required), again when dry back up the fuse sides and sand flush with the laser cut black edges.
 
Glue the servos to the fuse sides or if using servo mounts assemble formers C3 and C4 and mount servos. I used snakes for the elevator and rudder controls and set up the bellcrank before joining the fuse halves (it's much easier this way). Glue a plywood shim to each side of the bellcrank alligning with a 3mm rod (a drill bit in my case), I bushed the bellcrank with a nylon tube to suit the snake wire (no play here is good), glued the servo to the fuse side, set it to neutral and made up the snake to give near neutral bellcrank as in the pic above(it's a little up but will trim out). Rudder snake is easy with a little filing of the fuse hole.
 
I then put the whole fuse together with the formers fitted but unglued, pin through bellcrank and taped everything into allignment and when happy ran cyano into each joint. I made a new front former slightly larger to suit the motor mount and fixed it approx 15mm rearward of the position of the C1 former. Getting started now on the motor cowling.

John.

Happy Days:
Just a suggestion John. If your power train set up has not been tried before, you might like to set it up on the work bench and try it first. Without knowing the pitch of the prop you might find the motor and or esc start getting a bit hot, :oops:  in which case you will need to change something in the set up.

Also, while on the subject of “heat management” don’t forget that the motor, ESC and possibly the battery will need a flow of cooling air. So some holes will be needed both in the nose and somewhere else within the airframe to allow the air to exit the fuse.

Keep up the good work! :clap:

johnfireball:
Hi Keith,
          The gear i'm using was salvaged from a 2m glider which I've flown many times with the motor fully cowled and never had any problems with heat (I did check). I will put some vent in the cowl base.

Finished the nose shape. I don't think it takes from the quarkeyness of the Quark and blends in well. Made up canopy using temporary glued in spacers to get the size right and added the plywood tailplane spacers to the back of the fuse.

John.

andrew wallace:
:clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:
that's a nice piece of work John

johnfireball:
Hi,
Bit more done. I used nylon snake tube and piano wire for the bellcrank and tailplane fixings as suitable carbon was not readily available. Works well, the bellcrank pivots nicely on it. I epoxied a wire around the bellcrank top for extra strength.
 

I have the wing building near complete having obtained suitable carbon (thanks to model heli services I received it within one day). The wing servos are too thick to fit fully inside inside the wing so I cut holes in the ply covers supplied to fit. The servos will protrude out the bottom by 2mm. I will hot glue them in. Fred incidence pin holes in ribs N2 and N3 would be nice, I filed them out to suit.
 
John.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page