Planes > Electrics

New build - RCME Bambina

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Happy Days:
All looking good David. :D
Points to note
Speed controller: I see the ESC is only rated to 12 amps. Too late to change it now as you've already bought it but if the motor is going to draw 11amps it would have been safer to have an ESC rated to about 14+amps
At high power levels the ESC will likely get quite warm/hot, as will the motor. They will need some cooling so place them where there will be an inrush of air. (And allow for an outrush as well because if the incoming air can't escape then no air will flow.) The battery can also get warm BTW. So bear these facts in mind when you're deciding where to locate them.

Question: Is the diameter of the wires from the Red (so called) BEC connector, (the one that will connect your battery) the same as the diameter as the black & red wires from the ESC?
I didn't think BEC connectors were rated to 12 amps, though I might be wrong. :-\

Little Keith

angry_muppet:
You and I both know that this won't be flown at full chat... At least for a long time!  ;). The ESC has an additional 16A (10s) burst capability, so hopefully will be ok.

SBEC is rated to 1A, so I hope that's sufficient for 4 9g servos... If not, I need to order clevises, nylon wing bolts and a few other bits, so could still replace the ESC with something a bit meatier.

Have been wondering about the cooling; I'd like to keep it aesthetically pleasing rather than just functional.

EI1638:
Soldering Bullet Connectors (either gender):

OK, I know it would have been useful to know this before hand, but for the next time...

I use a scrap of MDF that is drilled to take the bullet connectors I want to solder.
Ideally the connectors are a sliding fit into the holes (not too loose).
Just whack the scrap of MDF into a vice on the bench, or clamp it to the bench (the fewer things to move the better), insert the connectors you want to solder (cup/bucket/wire end up), tin the wire ends and solder.

This way the only heat loss is through the wire as the MDF isolates the connectors from the vice/clips, and whilst it would help to have a third hand, it's not absolutely necessary, as only the soldering iron and the wire can move.

Depending on the size of wire being soldering I use a lolly stick and rubber band tweezers to hold the wire. Thicker wire sizes can get un-comfortably hot to handle during the soldering phase. No need to ask how I figured that out...

All told, the time spend cutting/drilling the MDF is more than compensated for in the much faster soldering time (and generally much neater soldering finish)

Chris

angry_muppet:
I've a few offcuts of MDF and more soldering to do, so I'll take that advice for the next batch!

Latest few nights have been frustrating and not exactly productive... The rear of the fuselage is covered with either curved balsa or planking; I chose planking... I'm not sure if trying to cut and curve the balsa wood have been easier.  :-\ The practice was required for the next build planned, so had to make a try at it.

There are a few gaps, but as quite a bit needs sanded off, I'm hoping that won't matter too much.

The cowl is being a serious pain. A square profile isn't easily rounded given the lack of clearance around the motor.

angry_muppet:
After a week of not getting near the bench, I've had about an hour. Enough to sand the rear planking, which I think has turned out ok. Some discoloration in the wood from the laser (I used scrap from the laser cut parts), but no gaps that I can feel...

Started putting the necessary top on the fuselage front with a gap for a hatch.

Also went back to my first attempt at a cowl for the original (too small) motor and hollowed out out with a dremel.  It fits, but cooling may be more difficult.

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