Techniques > Misc
Prob building Phase 6 fuselarge.
Happy Days:
Okay Nando, sounds like a good idea. :clap:
As for the onboard cam I don't see any probs. The model already weighs 300grms more than the recomended weight due to the reinforcing I've fitted in the floor and sides of the fuse, so an extra 36grs shouldn't make any difference. ( It'll just make it fly that little bit faster!) Where shall we put it to get the best views, without upsetting the CoG too much?
I was thinking of under the nose,.......but the cam might not survive my landing :oops:
Let me know when it's warm enough for you to venture outside again.
K.
Happy Days:
Okay Guys, let me explain what you are looking at.
It's the tail end of my Phase 6.
The 'fuse is up-side-down, and part of the side has been removed to expose the elevator activator arm. (This arm now has little rust spots on it, and the nylon celvis which is attached to the elevator control rod, can just be seen on top.)
There is a spot weld at the junction of the metal arm and the metal rod which fits into the LE of the elevator. (Covered white)
The problem is that the spot weld has come loose. This allows the elevator to move without the elevator control rod moving.
The matter is further complicated by the fact that the activator arm lies up against the TE of the horizontal stabilizer and the whole assembly of stabilizer, elevator, 'fuse, and the fin and ridder are, of course, all glued in place.
My question is ,................ How the hell do I solve this problem without having to rip half the rear fuse apart? :!: :?: :?:
I'm hoping someone out there has some kind of answer. I fear simply dropping some epoxy onto the loose weld in case it also sticks to the back of the stabilizer and or the side of the fuse.
I await some wisdom on this matter fingers crossed,
Keith
Fred:
:!: :!: Bugger !
But should be relatively easy to fix. :?:
If I were you, the best thing to do would be to cut the top clean (to glue it back later, or taped just in case if you need to access it again...) for a good access and use a solder iron to resold everything. I will go with at least a 80W, nothing below that to do it quick and efficiently. You can alway put some flux on the solder iron end to help the process and add more flux in the soldering...
Should only take you 5 minutes to fix, and hopefully for good :D
Other than that, epoxy, with really thin yano first might be your answer...
Happy Days:
Solder? :shock: ,.............you expect to solder steel???
Well you're absolutely right! you cleaver ol' Frenchman you :clap: :clap:
I would never have thought of that.
In fact, after I posted the problem on this forum I went back to the plane and decided that the original activation arm couldn't be repaired and that the easiest answer to the problem would be to put in a new flexible elevator control arm, and fit an exterior horn onto the elevator. (Major alterations)
But I removed a small section from the side of the fuse, and with a bit of plumbers flux and a very hot 80watt iron...............(as they say in England) "Bobs your uncle!". (Translation - It worked.)
Happy Days:
(I've just hit the submit button by mistake)
So thank you very much Fred (again) you're a very useful fellow to know. That tip saved me a great deal of work.
Thank You.
Keith
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