GliderIreland - Ireland RC Forum - Flying Model forum in Ireland
Techniques => Radios => Topic started by: Fred on May 18, 2012, 20:55:53 PM
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Ok, seeing the price of radio trays, better to look for an alternative solution!
And done! :D
Went from this :
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/Fred/P1060863.jpg)
To this :
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/Fred/P1060886.jpg)
In no time!
Full story and more photos here : http://www.gliderireland.net/index.php/techniques/diyradiotray
Fred
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Nice Fred :clap: :D
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Nice one Fred :D :D . Where can you buy those metal rods that the straps are connect to?
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Thanks guys. Hope that help someone :D
Alan, the metal rods are just aluminium tubes.
Drilled in one end for the metal loop thing, and a plastic bolt at the other end.
Very simple
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I see now, I just read your build log. I see Modellbau Pfeuffer make one for the Multiplex Cockpit SX as well. Excellent.
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Has anyone ordered from here recently?
I get as far as
"Bitte wählen Sie die gewünschte Versandart für Ihre Bestellung aus.
Artikel-Versandkosten
Unversicherter Versand nicht möglich. Bitte andere Versandart wählen."
or courtesy of google translate:
"Please select your desired shipping method for your order.
Product Returns
Uninsured shipping is not possible. Please select another shipping method."
and no further, with no buttons/icons to press to select a shipping method.
I've tried this now with 2 browsers and no joy. If my german was better (not dependant on google translate) I'd try contacting them directly, but it isn't.
The german part of my brain has obviously not been exercised in a long long time.
Chris
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Take your heart into your mouth and give them a ring Chris. If the guy who answers the phone doesn’t speak English I’ll bet you a ‘pound to a pinch of salt’ he’ll find someone who does.
Or, if that’s too stressful, simply email them. Again, they’ll find someone to translate. English language is taught in almost all continental schools. :wink:
Keith
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Hi Chris,
Had a look, as far as the step before confirming the order, and no issues :?:
Maybe pop him a mail?
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Maybe it was finger trouble. Usual excuse, it was late and I was tired!
I'll try again when I'm less likely to have finger trouble, before the third bottle of pineau this time.
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Hhhmmmm, pineau... :D
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Hi Guys.
I'm having the same problem to. I get the following message (Its from Google Translate).
"Product Returns
Shipping Uninsured impossible. Please select another shipping method."
But I can't see anywhere, where I can select another shipping method.
Any ideas.
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Hi Alan,
I gave up. I reckoned if I spent much longer figuring out how to use the website I'd have the bits cut out.
Cardboard demo model cut out and notes made for corrections (since I'm not a CAD whizz like others we know), so I'm almost ready to cut out the pieces for real now.
Chris
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Sorry, just seeing that now!
Did you sent him a mail telling him about your issues? :?:
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Fred,
No, I haven't emailed him. I tried a few different browsers to see if it was anything in my settings (or not liking my not 'modern' browsers as google keeps reminding me).
In the end I decided it wasn't worth the effort. I've enough scraps of material lying around to knock the bits together in an hour or two, which would leave me with a kit of bits, which is exactly where I'd be if I had managed to order the kit in the first place, and I've already expended that much time staring at the website.
Besides, I've forgotten almost all of my "Deutsch als Fremdesprache" (German as a foreign language), well, apart from the essential, 'Ein bier bitte'.
Chris
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Und Wurst mit pommes frites! :lol:
Looking forward to the photos :D
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mit knudlen und sauerkraut bitte.
Back to the task in hand.
Stage one: Reduce, resuse, recycle:
Mockup produced in cardboard. 30 minutes or so of effort. Lots of notes now scribbled on the mockup. Actually did this a few weeks back, but some 'improvements' to the balsa dust factory slowed progress.
Material earmarked. Some scraps and some ply salvaged from a fancy wine box. More recycling. This will be painted in my trademark yellow when its all done (so that I can use filler and hide all my mistakes).
I got into the habit a while back of making sure all my ground kit was yellow. I'll still loose bits, but the yellow really stands out when I'm packing up to go home. I've not managed to lose a yellow item so far.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/tranny_tray1.jpg)
This will be disassembled into the relevant parts (tray top being the most important) and used as templates for the real one. Most likely the remaining pieces will be measured out based on the notes scribbled on the mockup.
Chris
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Yeah, it all looks very neat Chris. :D How will you support it?
K.
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Ah Keith,
now that is the trick. Watch this space :twisted:
chris
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I'm watching!..... I'm watching!!
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We are watching! :clap:
For the support, on mine, this is how it's done (simple and works great)
(http://www.gliderireland.net/images/stories/p1060868.jpg)
(http://www.gliderireland.net/images/stories/p1060875.jpg)
(http://www.gliderireland.net/images/stories/p1060876.jpg)
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Ok, since I said I was recycling, I was running through my stock of plywood odds and ends. The biggest suitable piece I found came from a wardrobe, and is very definitely older than I am. The downside of this recycling is that the Nitromors had to come out to remove the layers of varnish applied at least 50 years ago.
Construction was in stages:
Stage one, cut out the platter, sides and rear piece based on the template and any notes scribbled there upon.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/img1_small.jpg)
These were stuck together using mitre bond. This is medium cyano with kicker, intended for picture framing people. Seems to work rather nicely on model airplanes too. Other bits n bobs were cut out as required and stuck in place, resulting in this:
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/img2_small.jpg)
You can just make out the 'magic' pieces under the tray top. Here's a closer look:
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/img3_small.jpg)
These are more blocks of scrap ply from some project or another salvaged/sacrificed for the greater good. The centres were marked and then drilled with a 5 mm drill bit.
These blocks of ply were then firmly fitted into a bench vice and tapped, using an M6 tap, to mate with standard (long) M6 wing bolts. The M6 bolts were epoxied and pinned into the arms so they can be removed later.
The key to tapping plywood is runny cyano. After the thread has been (carefully) cut, soak the thread liberally in runny cyano and forget about it for a while. When the cyano has set (this can take a while, longer than you might think) clear the threads using the tap. Voila, an M6 'nut' of plywood. This works for many screw sizes, the only gotcha is that it works best if the mating bolt is nylon, rather than steel.
Here's a closer look. If you look carefully the threads are visible in the plywood.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/img4_small.jpg)
There we go, I need to tidy up a few little things, fill a few holes (from its former life as a wardrobe) and finish to look neat, but its perfectly usable in its current state now.
Probably 3 - 4 hours in total to get to this stage. The biggest delay was stripping the old varnish off the recycled ply.
Job done (almost). Pressure off now, need to transfer some model settings to new tranny and then its time to test it all out.
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Brilliant job Chris! :clap: and at virtually zero cost,…..now there’s a man after my own heart! :D
Very neat, what I’d call a “Proper Job.”
I’ve never felt confident using threaded wood, so I’ve tended to insert blind nuts instead. (Just a personal preference.)
Not sure I believe your statment about the wardrobe being a lot older than you though. :?: :lol: :lol:
K.
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Finished item. ready to go
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/finished_small.jpg)
The fleet is now configured to work with this tranny and the 'sit' feels perfect. Now all need is the chance to crash, sorry, fly the models. I guess a crash is an uncontrolled (or should that be unplanned) landing.
Not sure anyone else will be inspired to try the genuine DIY route, but it ain't difficult, thats for sure :D
I based my dimensions on the Freds 'kit' photo as I was able to work out the approximate size of the 'wings' from the photo. In a moment of madness I thought there might be a scientific/ergonomic reason for the 'wings' of the tray to be a particular size. The rest of the design used the tranny dimensions and the TLAR (That Looks About Right) design principle.
The biggest problem I had during this little project was with the rubbish spray paint I used (I'm trying to get rid of, by using, my various cans of rubbish paint. As everyone can gather, I'm too tight to throw it out and replace it with decent quality paint). I would have had that problem regardless of where the 'kit' was sourced :oops:
Chris
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That is looking really good Chris! :clap: :clap:
You can also put some Neoprene pads where your hands are resting on the tray :D
I put mine (sticky backing) when the last layer of varnish was sticky for better bond.
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Hi Chris, Fred,
Making one myself at present and wonder what length tubes are required for best stability.
Thanks
John.
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Hi John,
Not too sure what is the best, but just measured mine.
Lenght from top of the tray to top of tube:
DIY Tray: 17cm
MPX original tray: 14cm
No real difference between both to be honest, even with the original MPX tray with the hook being in a more forward position ( was thinking bending forward the tubes on my DIY tray, but no real need)
Hope this helps !
Fred
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Thanks Fred.
John.
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Ta..Daa
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/johnfireball/radtray.JPG)
Sits really well.
John.
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Hi John,
just saw your post now. I used some left over tube I had and cut it in two. The lengths Fred mentioned sound about right, for some reason 180 mm comes to mind, but essentially it was half the length of the tube. The half lengths were close to TLAR in Freds original photos.
Not sure if I said earlier, but I used pins (actually lengths of paperclip) to lock my M6 nylon screws into the tubes. Can't remember if I used epoxy or cyano to hold them in place. Since my tube walls wre fairly thick l (1mm) I didn't think there would be much bending moment on the pins, so I could get away with a softer metal pin.
Stuff is all locked away to go travelling so can't measure at the moment.
Chris
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hi fred
are you doinfg the trays as cnc cut kit ??
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After Fred posted about the Quark Micro plans being available on the jivaro_models.org website I thought it'd been a while since I'd checked Jivero out.
Bad move, there, under 'Technique' was something that had been eating me for a while - yet another tranny tray, but this time for 'standard' Futaba transmitter.
The drawings here are for a perspex tray to suit a Turnigy transmitter
http://www.jivaro-models.org/pupitre/page_pupitre.htm
I'd already made an attempt at putting one together, but the 3D modelling was not a success, I couldn't reach the switches on the front of the transmitter with anything resembling comfort. Much hacking of cardboard later I gave up. I'd obviously not consumed enough thinking sauce before I started marking out my cardboard
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/first_attempt.jpg)
Not pretty.
I printed out the Jivaro drawings and started 3D modelling (in cardboard again). Some cuts, nicks later I ended up with this, with plenty of scribbled adjustments to the original drawings:
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/Jivaero_model.jpg)
OK, I was never going to use perspex, so my target material was 3 mm ply. Fret saw and sander located, dust blown away, new set of marked up drawings stuck to my scraps of plywood and I was off. Adhesive was mitre bond, as per the last one (only this time it was thick, not medium...) and after 3 coats of sanding sealer, a light sanding and some primer and paint I ended up with this.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/finished_product.jpg)
8) Sits right and feels right.
I have misgivings about the neck strap, but for this tranny a flight never lasts much more than 7 minutes anyway, so not likely to be a problem.
Supports held in place with RC car body clips. Neat idea (not mine, sigh)
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Yep, this one's a keeper. Most comfortable days power flying I've ever spent.
Now, if only I could make something to improve my flying ....
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I use a tray with my 3030, but not with my DX7s and it feels odd without the tray! Need to build one to suit it :?:
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Hi Bill,
That is exactly the way I felt about my Futaba T7C. Compared to my FX20 which is just so comfortable to use the standard tranny just never felt right. A neck strap was slightly better than no strap, but still not right.
The tray just works. It's solid, yet comfortable, and not overly heavy, so after 11 x 7 minute flights yesterday no neck issues, as I've set this one up with a neck strap rather than the "man bra".
I try to set up my gear specifically for the type of models I'm flying. OK, that leaves me with 3 sets of flying kit (CL, gliders, power), but it also means I can't say that I forgot to take something out of whatever kit it was last in - neck strap stays with power flying kit/tranny, "man bra" stays with glider flying kit/tranny etc.
I've now run out of excuses for being a rubbish power flyer.
Chris
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Seems every time I go flying people ask me about this tray. I'm regularly asked where I got it, to which I always reply 'I found it in my workshop'.
I've been pointing folk to this thread, so I thought I'd better add some more photos of the finished product, so that construction is as self explanatory as possible.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/101_0225.JPG)
Underside showing runners: I had some scrap lengths of ply so I just rounded the ends and used some more scraps to make triangular gussets to keep everything off the ground. The RF module is clearly visible, sitting snugly in it's cutout, as are the two slots for the battery compartment 'feet'
To make everything solid the tubes I use to locate the harness rods are glued into the top and bottom plates. I think this shot gives a really good idea of how the whole thing was assembled.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/101_0226.JPG)
Front quarter, showing curved backplate and front gusset. Neoprene rubber hand 'grips' clearly visible here Not sure if I said already, but placed whilst final clear coat is still wet.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/101_0227.JPG)
View from the back. Shows backplate and alu tubes that the harness rods slide in to. The string is tied to the two clips I use to hold the harness rods in place - so that I don't lose them when the tranny is not in use.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/101_0228.JPG)
Front view, showing how the integrated tranny handle fits over the bottom front of the tray. Shows front gussets for supporting sides/base from tray top.
(http://www.gliderireland.net/forum/images/uploads/EI1638/101_0229.JPG)
The magic velcro that holds the tranny in place. Not a a lot of velcro, but enough to hold the tranny in place when the tray is turned upside down.
Shows the overall shape of the bottom and cutouts for RF module and the feet on the battery compartment lid.
I can't recommend enough making a mockup out of cardboard before cutting timber (or whatever your preferred material is). This guarantees a good fit of the transmitter to the tray.
Since I'm lazy, the joint areas are large, and the transmitter is light, cyano (mitrebond) was used everywhere. A couple of engineers squares come in handy to keep everything aligned whilst the cyano kicks.
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A very neat job Chris, for those who don't fly "thumbs up".
Just one question,......where do the batteries go to heat the bits on the side of the tray to keep your little 'pingys' warm on cold days? :lol:
Keith
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But seriously, did you not notice the battery connector and battery straps on the right hand side and the small thumbwheel temperature control just at pinkie level :twisted: