Messages

91

PSS / Blackburn Buccaneer

« on: October 19, 2014, 09:31:01 AM »

After some discussion with Little Keith (its his fault :roll: ):

Here's something else I came across on the interweb.

1/8 scale PSS Blackburn Buccaneer, depron and glass cloth.

http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=15787.0

If I didn't already have too many modelling projects on the go...

92

Scale / Veron Hawker Hart

« on: October 18, 2014, 23:57:59 PM »

Yes, I reckon he has built one or two FF models before. Came across it on a free flight forum.

Looks like fun, but I wonder how many test flights there were before he had the successful flights shown.

Does look like fun though.

93

Scale / Veron Hawker Hart

« on: October 18, 2014, 19:29:52 PM »

Came across this the other day. Enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKW-wXbjPfw

94

How to... / Gorilla Glue

« on: July 05, 2014, 13:05:19 PM »

I'm an expert builder (in my dreams), so expert that I need an extensive knowledge of glue solvents in order to fix all the mistakes I make during the building process.

I've used gorilla glue on and off for this and that, but only recently one of the lads (Jim) shared this nugget with me - vinegar softens gorilla glue.

I had yet another building mistake to rectify, on a ply sided model, so I gave this a go.

I was amazed, after a very short period of time (minutes) the glue joint had softened enough to get a blade into the joint and after that the joint pretty much came away in my hand. I'm not sure how well this would work for separating balsa or foam joined with gorilla glue, but for ply or hardwood from balsa it really works a treat.

I had clear distilled malt vinegar to hand, so that is what I used. I brushed it liberally over the joint using a 1/2 inch brush, and waited.

Don't try this if you're feeling hungry though, for obvious reasons. Aroma still lingering, SWMBO still doesn't believe me, she thinks I had a secret stash of chips in the workshop...

Chris

95

Scale / P47 - Electric Conversion.

« on: May 19, 2014, 23:38:15 PM »

Here is what the current F2B World Champion is using to arrest sparks during plug in on his championship winning model. If I recall correctly he is running 5S, but don't quote me on that.

Very very simple, but not really suitable for Deans connectors.

96

Misc / spy plane fries air traffic control computers shuts down lax

« on: May 10, 2014, 21:23:59 PM »

Came across this on another forum

http://www.nbcnews.com/news/investigations/spy-plane-fries-air-traffic-control-computers-shuts-down-lax-n95886

I guess it says more about software developers/development than airplanes, even U2s

97

Slope Sites in Ireland / New slope site 1 hour north of dublin

« on: March 20, 2014, 22:57:32 PM »

Not that I have an OS map in front of me but I believe the location is called 'Clairemont Cairn' on the relevant OS map. I think that it is on the route of the annual 'puc fada', long distance hurling for anyone who doesn't know already, nothing to do with goats.

When are you lads thinking of trying it out? Its probably the best part of an hour from my base, so weather and visa's permitting I might get a day out as well.

98

Scale / The story of a Vimy...

« on: February 18, 2014, 21:17:23 PM »

I don't know Fred. Just back from the science museum in London and there are a few scale details missing....

Starboard wing on the original LE has a number of white linen patches. Traditional fixes looks like, rectangles of various sized fabric doped onto the existing covering. Almost every second rib bay.

Got to say, having stared at the full size for a bit, they were brave men. Cockpit looked very small, and very exposed, and big and all as the airplane is, it is still quite a small airplane.

Chris

99

Slope Soaring / Pentrez Plage

« on: February 13, 2014, 09:48:26 AM »

Fred,

Can't write a word of francais to save my life anymore (was never much good at writing it anyway), but any word on how Pentrez has fared out with all of these storms?

Chris

100

How to... / Soldering Deans type connectors.

« on: February 10, 2014, 09:24:13 AM »

Keith,

Agreed, but sometimes it is really hard to just hold onto the deans, hence the large dia heat shrink trick. Less of a problem with other types of connectors as they tend to be physically larger and easier to grip (at least the ones I've used). Still prefer the deans though.

Chris

101

How to... / Soldering Deans type connectors.

« on: February 09, 2014, 23:03:34 PM »

Nice Keith.

I do something similar. I find a small vice does the job nicely as it won't move (as easily).

The other sneaky thing I do is that I have hardwood tweezers (some spruce off cuts and rubber bands) that I use to hold the wire in position during the operation. They come in handy for all sorts of connectors, don't damage the wires and save the pinkies.

I know I have some very bad soldering habits as its not something I do a lot of, but tinning (pre soldering)  the wire and connectors helps a lot too, as the solder is already in situ and all that is needed is to get it to flow again. It doesn't take much heat to tin the deans pins, compared to the heat required to tin thicker silicon wires. And it means that I'm only holding the soldering iron and the wires during the opertion, and not the solder as well.
I use 'proper' cored electrical solder (the kind that is used to rework/fix electronic components), so no worries about flux.

I have one other trick for Deans. If you can get your hands on some 13 mm heatshrink it will fit over the Deans connector and when shrunk provides something other than the wires to grip when its time to insert/remove the connectors. If you are paranoid you can fill it with hot glue too.

I mostly use deans, but most of the above applies to all connector types. A block of wood with a suitable diameter hole holds the pins/sockets in place for soldering for most other types.

Its pecular that we use soldered connections when most (all) professional systems use crimps, but I guess that the cost of a proper crimp tool makes soldering much more economically attractive at the kind of volumes we need.

Chris

102

Scale / The story of a Vimy...

« on: January 23, 2014, 14:02:09 PM »

Ah now Keith, you're slipping up.

The first crossing of the atlantic was completed by the Navy Curtiss NC-4 flying boat. It stopped several times on the crossing (you can do that with a flying boat).

The big difference was that Alcock and Brown managed to do it non stop.

I always knew the NC-4 was first to cross, just never realised it was that it completed the trip only 2 weeks before Alcock and Brown until I checked the dates after I saw your post.

Neat model though.

103

How to... / Cutting Uniform Ribs

« on: January 15, 2014, 12:30:42 PM »

Hi Stephen,

For those of us without Freds toys Ralph has the right answer, the "Sandwich" method.

This works well for constant chord or tapered wings, curves are a bit of a problem.

To make this work you need a root and tip template, and some long bolts. I usually make my templates from 1.5 mm ply, and depending on the rib size use either long M3 or M8 bolts. Make sure the bolt holes line up in your two templates and that they are in the correct position relative to each other for tapered wings (otherwise the taper will be off. Y axis is important too, otherwise you end up with washin/out.

If you like the templates are the bread of the sandwich. The filling is the number of ribs you want to make.

Drill the ribs to suit your long bolts and their locations and sandwich the ribs between the templates.Check your alignments and start trimming. I usually use very coarse sandpaper (60/80 grit) until I am getting close to the edges of the templates. Then move to finer grades. Cut out your spar and any other slots (leading edge, lightening holes) whilst you have the bunch of ribs together. You did remember to cut them into your templates, right? If the ribs are big enough for lightening holes a dremel drum sander does a very nice job.

Just be careful of doing highly tapered wings. As the ribs come out of the sandwich they will have a champhered edge, and you will remove this during the build. If there is a lot of taper the champfer will be large, so your finished ribs will be a fair bit smaller than what you started with.

You can do one wing at a time, or if you alternate ribs you can sand both wing halves at once (even ribs one wing, odd ribs the other). Doing both at once means that both wings will be slightly different, but it reduces the amount of champfer on tapered wing ribs considerably. On this point you pays your money and takes your chances.

Of course, if the wing is constant chord then no problems with champfer.

I have heard of people using this method to make templates for individual ribs and using the output of the sandwich method above as the templates for custom cut ribs. I can't say I know any such people personally (or maybe I do but don't realise it). This approach eliminates problems with champfer.

Chris

Chris

104

Wanted / Lipo charger

« on: January 12, 2014, 14:53:51 PM »

Hi,

I knew there was something familiar about the original post and then the penny dropped. A while ago I had a similar problem with one of my chargers.

I disassembled the offending article and 'reflowed' the solder on the display board connector. If you're sure its the display and are competent with a soldering iron you could try the same. On  my unit the display board was soldered to 0.1 inch pitch pillars, so it was fairly easy.

Not that I've been doing much flying lately, but my charger has behaved impeccably since then.

Chris

105

Control Line / Control line

« on: August 04, 2013, 19:59:08 PM »

Hi Andrew,

Maurice Doyle (BMFC) had a Tucano Trainer published in Aeromodeller in the 80's sometime. This is an all sheet profile model (with plywood belcrank and fuel tank(!)) aimed at a PAW 149. Nice looking model and quite robust.

I would suggest that or a mini good year racer design for 1.5 cc diesel. Everything is on the outside of this type of model so easy to get at and since the models are solid sheet repairs are easy.

To progress from this you are restricted to 1/2 A combat designs without spending money on a new motor.

A better compromise might be a goodyear racer (again all sheet profile) for a 15 (2.5 cc) motor (any kind) as the objective is to get used to the controls and overcome the inevitable dizziness. I'd suggest putting the controls on the outside though. Going for the '15' sized model would allow for progressing to a 'Peacemaker' combat/profile stunt model, or a vintage combat (dominator/warlord) without purchasing a new motor to allow the 'tricks' (inside/outside loops, inverted flight and wingovers) to be learned.

If you have a PAW 2.5 or similar sitting around you can do what I did, which was build a 'solid' peacemaker (heavy but strong) and re-learn to fly it. Personally I'd go with a glow rather than the diesel as with the diesel there is the extra adjustment to be made to the motor, and the real secret to flying control line models is the engine run, The fewer controls there are the fewer things can be mis -adjusted.

Plans are available for goodyear racers (full sized and mini) as well as the Peacemaker, though if you know anyone in the Belfast Model Flying Club they should be able to put you right.

With a PAW 1.5 cc motor you are talking about 42' 6" lines, 52' 6" for the 2.5. PAW supply 'staystrait' control line wire. I think the link has been discussed in previous posts here.

An ASP 12 or similar is a good alternative to a PAW 2.5 for this type of model either.You will need longer line lengths to tame a modern '15' glow.

Unlike RC the carnage rate is high whilst learning CL (the only RC models I've not got still are ones I've given away. Different story for my CL models), so don't waste a lot of time on making the model pretty, Fuel proof is good enough.

One last thing is the handle, Try to get one that has no 'cant' or offset between top and bottom. Its easier to learn from the beginning with handle like this than have to relearn after you've discovered how much it is limiting your flying.

Another more recent requirement is a safety/wrist strap at the handle, I've had docile 2.5 cc models pull the handle from my hand under unexpected circumstances.

Oh yes, make sure you have spare needle valves. It helps to use some thin right angle Al held in place with the motor mount screws with a clearance hole cut for the needle valve, for any front needle motor, The needle valves survive longer this way.

I know I've gone a little off topic, but I hope this helps,

Chris