Author Topic: Control line  (Read 7241 times)

andrew wallace

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Control line
« on: August 03, 2013, 20:58:55 PM »
Anybody plans or tips for a good trainer control line model
I've been trying to fly a Blackhawk models little bat with a 0.49 black widow Cox engine with very little success  :(
i\'m an ordinary man nothing special nothing grand

Fred

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Control line
« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2013, 22:18:14 PM »
Hey Andrew,

The people from the little republic village will certainly answer your question  :D

If that can help, you have buckets of CL plans on the Outerzone.
As for me, many moons ago, I started with this:





The Pulsar. Takes an hour to build and flew very nicely as far as I remember  :D
Education is important, but flying RC planes and gliders is importanter!

johnfireball

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Control line
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2013, 23:41:59 PM »


Hi Andrew,
             Great to see others trying control line. I went back for nostalgic reasons. Above is a pic of my latest build (not yet finished) of the model I had when I was thirteen. Its the KielKraft radian powered by a brodac .049 engine, plans downloaded from net.
What problems are you having as flying straight and level should not be a problem so long as the cg is correct and line tension maintained. Freds plan looks good but you will be quickly bored by it's lack of manouverability.
John.
I have the body of an 18 year old.........I keep it in the freezer

EI1638

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Control line
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2013, 19:59:08 PM »
Hi Andrew,

Maurice Doyle (BMFC) had a Tucano Trainer published in Aeromodeller in the 80's sometime. This is an all sheet profile model (with plywood belcrank and fuel tank(!)) aimed at a PAW 149. Nice looking model and quite robust.

I would suggest that or a mini good year racer design for 1.5 cc diesel. Everything is on the outside of this type of model so easy to get at and since the models are solid sheet repairs are easy.

To progress from this you are restricted to 1/2 A combat designs without spending money on a new motor.

A better compromise might be a goodyear racer (again all sheet profile) for a 15 (2.5 cc) motor (any kind) as the objective is to get used to the controls and overcome the inevitable dizziness. I'd suggest putting the controls on the outside though. Going for the '15' sized model would allow for progressing to a 'Peacemaker' combat/profile stunt model, or a vintage combat (dominator/warlord) without purchasing a new motor to allow the 'tricks' (inside/outside loops, inverted flight and wingovers) to be learned.

If you have a PAW 2.5 or similar sitting around you can do what I did, which was build a 'solid' peacemaker (heavy but strong) and re-learn to fly it. Personally I'd go with a glow rather than the diesel as with the diesel there is the extra adjustment to be made to the motor, and the real secret to flying control line models is the engine run, The fewer controls there are the fewer things can be mis -adjusted.

Plans are available for goodyear racers (full sized and mini) as well as the Peacemaker, though if you know anyone in the Belfast Model Flying Club they should be able to put you right.

With a PAW 1.5 cc motor you are talking about 42' 6" lines, 52' 6" for the 2.5. PAW supply 'staystrait' control line wire. I think the link has been discussed in previous posts here.

An ASP 12 or similar is a good alternative to a PAW 2.5 for this type of model either.You will need longer line lengths to tame a modern '15' glow.

Unlike RC the carnage rate is high whilst learning CL (the only RC models I've not got still are ones I've given away. Different story for my CL models), so don't waste a lot of time on making the model pretty, Fuel proof is good enough.

One last thing is the handle, Try to get one that has no 'cant' or offset between top and bottom. Its easier to learn from the beginning with handle like this than have to relearn after you've discovered how much it is limiting your flying.

Another more recent requirement is a safety/wrist strap at the handle, I've had docile 2.5 cc models pull the handle from my hand under unexpected circumstances.

Oh yes, make sure you have spare needle valves. It helps to use some thin right angle Al held in place with the motor mount screws with a clearance hole cut for the needle valve, for any front needle motor, The needle valves survive longer this way.

I know I've gone a little off topic, but I hope this helps,

Chris