Hi all,
I received my quark mini kit last Friday, many thanks Fred, and as usual got stuck in straight away. The kit contains a detailed plan and all the wood needed for completion, beautifully cut and of good quality. The carbon spars, leading edges, wing joiners and control fittings must be purchased elsewhere.
I have decided to try an electric conversion using a Turnigy Park 450 1050kv motor with a 25 amp speed controller a 1200ma 3s zippy lipo and a 9xsomething folding prop. Servos are hobbyking 939 metal gear(never had one fail crashed and all) I have used this setup before on a glider with good results. The problem is fitting it all into this narrow fuse. I am using the layout as shown in the pic above doing away with the servo trays as supplied and gluing the servos to the fuse side. I will make a door on the underside for battery removal. I think with the layout as above the C/G will work out (time will tell).
So the build is started. I noticed the fuse slot for former C4 was not cut so I measured it up and cut it by hand on both sides. Servo mount ST1 needed corners filed to fit in formers C3 & C2 (I decided not to use it as gear wont fit), servo holes must be filed to suit servos used. Next the small bellcrank bushes are glued, one to each fuse side inners and aligned by putting fuse sides back to back and inserting a 3mm rod through the holes. The stripwood supplied can then be glued to the fuse edges (pins and a few cuts required), again when dry back up the fuse sides and sand flush with the laser cut black edges.
Glue the servos to the fuse sides or if using servo mounts assemble formers C3 and C4 and mount servos. I used snakes for the elevator and rudder controls and set up the bellcrank before joining the fuse halves (it's much easier this way). Glue a plywood shim to each side of the bellcrank alligning with a 3mm rod (a drill bit in my case), I bushed the bellcrank with a nylon tube to suit the snake wire (no play here is good), glued the servo to the fuse side, set it to neutral and made up the snake to give near neutral bellcrank as in the pic above(it's a little up but will trim out). Rudder snake is easy with a little filing of the fuse hole.
I then put the whole fuse together with the formers fitted but unglued, pin through bellcrank and taped everything into allignment and when happy ran cyano into each joint. I made a new front former slightly larger to suit the motor mount and fixed it approx 15mm rearward of the position of the C1 former. Getting started now on the motor cowling.
John.